From Chimney Smoke To Polluted Smog... By CHARISMA K LEPCHA

Standing tall and proud as the highest structure in Kathmandu for the longest period of time in Nepal's history is Dharahara. It is a minaret-like white tower visible from any part of the valley. Built in Mughal architectural-style by the first Prime Minister, Bhimsen Thapa in memory of the late Queen Lalita Tripurasundari, this was officially used as a watchtower.

But legend has it that a certain king would climb the tower everyday around dusk and look over the valley to make sure there was smoke rising from the chimney of every house. If there was no smoke rising from a single house, he would send his soldiers to check for the family's well being.

Unfortunately, things are different today. The polluted smog has replaced the chimney smoke and no such king exists. It is but 19-year-old Nitesh who looks over the valley from this high place. Spending six days a week and eight hours a day in this 213-step tower, Nitesh is familiar with a sight the king never saw.

Hailing originally from Dharan in eastern Nepal, Nitesh is glad to have made his way to Kathmandu and very much enjoys his job. He is a guard-*****-guide at the tower balcony that oversees the valley and is a helpful source for visitors' queries on top.

The shortage of drinking water in Kathmandu is a stale news as the congested houses give a very bland view alongside high rising corporate buildings under construction. Likewise, the streets are ever crowded with people, cows, and vehicles that seem small and inadequate.

Ram Krishna Maharjan, 68, is a Kathmandu native who has been driving in the capital streets for almost four decades. He recalls the time when there were no roads in the city, but with construction of roads, he is now annoyed at the number of vehicles in the streets and the chaos they create.

Only last month, a Japanese traffic control volunteer pulled over Gopal Man Shrestha, the deputy inspector general of Nepal's Armed Police Force for trying to get past the red light. Shrestha was penalized for breaking traffic rules and not carrying his license. But the Japanese law enforcer has been asked not to return to the road.

A veteran behind the wheels, Maharjan was glad to see some justice and thinks that some regulation should be established. Preferring life before 1990's during the Panchayat era, he is hopeful about the current government. "If the King means well, there is future for the country," he added.

But it is hard to tell how much power the King has beyond this "fortified city."

Raju Lama, a grocery shop owner who is originally from Taplejung, eastern Nepal hasn't been home for a long time and is not planning to go back anytime soon.

Fair enough, the city is teeming with people from all over Nepal looking for employment and refuge as it proves to be a safer haven than their villages where reports of kidnappings, killings and bomb blasts are afresh. Couple of weeks ago, Nepal received worldwide attention as the Maoist rebels bombed a passenger bus killing 39 and injuring over 70 people.

But the chaos and unrest seem to have instigated curiosity in the hearts of many. There seems to be a growing number of foreign scholars choosing Nepal as their fieldwork for research studies. But those in Kathmandu are looking for future abroad. Students line up in front of the embassies for visa applications while workers queue up in front of overseas employment offices, not really knowing their future destinations.

True enough, after my descent from the tower and as I was passing through the busy streets of Kathmandu my attention was drawn to a pavement corner. A crowd had gathered to buy paper from a newsy that could be heard yelling, "Results are out for the America Green Card lottery."

source: http://www.kantipuronline.com/kolnews.php?&nid=47265